Sunday, May 20, 2012

It's All About the Vine

We pulled into Napa and checked into our campsite at the fairgrounds - concrete pads to park on, large swatches of grass between the sites, roses and other seasonal flowers everywhere.  We even picked some lemons off the tree outside the office. 

What it's about here is W-I-N-E!  Vineyards in every direction as far as the eye can see.  We made a stop at the Visitors Center and got recommendations for the most over-the-top vintners to visit.

We began at the Satteri Winery.  Pretty impressive building and aging room.
They are celebrating 125 years and 4 generations as a family owned and operated winery.
Next stop - Calistoga.  We took this photo of the main street for our friend Mary.  She told us it's a cute town...and it is.  We visited with some of the merchants and generally enjoyed being out in the wonderful weather.
Finnegan enjoyed Calistoga too...  
The evening activity was attending the Chef's Market - a weekly event in the town.  Lots of food stands, a few produce sellers (it's only May), entertainment, and lots of community commraderie.  It was fun.

Our 2nd day in Napa was spent visiting two spectacular wineries. 
First stop - Chateau Montelena
The lake, known as Jade Lake, has two islands for the use of "club members only."  Flowers and beautiful plantings fill every space.  The crooked footbridges to the islands are built to honor Chinese legend which says that evil spirits can only travel over water in straight lines.
The chateau is up a flight of stone stairs from the lake.  Maybe it was built here or MAYBE it was moved from France.  Sure looks like it could have been.  The truth is that it was built in 1882 and was known as the Tubbs Wine Cellar.  The facade has not changed in 130 years.
Finnegan wasn't allowed inside but he enjoyed the tour of the grounds.  (He's not much of a wine drinker anyway...but he is a very good plant waterer.)
Ed was ready to climb into the old press until he realized there were no grapes in it.  Too early in the season...?
Cooling off outside the tasting room at the koi fountain...

Chateau Montelena Winery entered their Chardonnay in a French competition in 1976.  They were rated above all other wines in a blind tasting.  France - Meet California.  (I think there was a movie made about this event.)

Next stop:  Castello di Amorosa.

The Sattui family was not satisfied with just one winery.  They have built a 13th century castle.  Building began in 1993 and took 15 years to complete.  The 8 level castle (4 below ground) has 121,000 sq. ft,, 107 rooms, a drawbridge, dungeon, chapel, and wines sold ONLY at the winery.

AND - it's dog friendly.  Finn was invited to take the short self-guided tour.

The Great Hall is all hand painted.
A hallway along the inner courtyard...
The approach from the parking area.  I noted the moat was filled with weeds and not water.
On the second level.  Looking down into the courtyard.  The chapel is the door with the white stone above it.
The tasting room has the cross vaulted ceiling seen throughout the building.
Here are Finn and me tasting.  Ed and I each got to select 5 wines...meaning we tasted 10.  I was so tipsy Ed and Finn both had to lead me out to the car.

We packed up and moved to Santa Rosa.  (We were being displaced in Napa by the House and Garden Show.)  Our new campsite at the Fairgrounds is very pleasant and friendly.

First Sonoma Valley winery stop was at Chateau St. Jean

Gardens don't have to be large to be spectacular...and here they are exquisite.
 All the grapes grown on the property are displayed and marked in the gardens.
 The tasting room is at the far end and there was a cute guy in a blue shirt I followed around until he noticed me.  I'm taking him home...
The town of Sonoma is built around a square.  One side is a state park.  Here is the Mission San Francisco Solano dated 1823.  It was the last and northernmost outpost on the historic Mission Trail.
 The otherside of the square is a park, visitors center, and home to this huge beautiful tree.
The old theatre still has stage shows and shows movies.


 We began the next day by taking a drive through the Sonoma Valley.  We began on Westside Road to Healdsburg - a bustling and lovely town right in the middle of the Valley.  Then onto Dry Creek Road, and finally Dutcher Creek Road into Cloverdale.  The two-lane country road  is the most scenic we've been on so far.  Tree lined, bordered on both sides by vineyards, wineries to stop in, and rolling hills.  There are fruit farms and orchards.  Spectacular.  Tuscany without the old monasteries on the hills... 
 Our drive brought us to the Coppola Winery where we had lunch, tasted a bit, explored the grounds, and enjoyed the exhibits Frances has included in his place.

One can spend the afternoon at the pool - for a fee, and enjoy some wine in the sun...
...sit beside the Godfather desk...admire Francis' Oscars and Golden Globes...
...circle his fabulous Tucker in the entry rotunda...
...taste wine (the cheap ones are free) and enjoy a wonderful lunch in the dining room.  There's an event center under construction.
Life is good in the Coppola realm.

We decided that Kendall Jackson would be our last stop.  They are known for their gardens.

 The local Visitors Center had given us a coupon which entitled us to a tasting of the premimum wines.  It was before lunch and the lady pouring for us taught us a whole lot.  All very basic but useful.  Let's see...wines with tannin are the ones that have that after taste along the lower jaw.  They are not "sipping" wines but are meant to be served with food.  We both liked the Kendall Jackson best of all we had tasted.  We even joined the club and will begin receiving our three small shipments in October.

There are two gardens to tour - self guided.  The vineyard is marked with all the grapes grown by the company.
The Culinary Garden is planted with all sorts of vegetables.  The whole area is surrounded by perennial flower gardens. 
 Ed felt that since he now has a stake in the company he could pick the ripe kohlrabi.  It was delicious...
We noted that as we drove around Napa and Sonoma counties our discussions were different by area.  In Napa we talked about the size and power of the industry and in Sonoma we reveled at the beauty of the hills, the trees, the vineyards.  Napa had more attitude.  Sonoma felt more "come on in and have a glass."  We enjoyed both...

We are packing up and leaving in the morning and heading up to Eureka and redwood country.  Have no idea how long we'll stay.



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